| Vintage 2006 Newsletter |
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April 06 Dear Friend 2006 Vintage NotesWhat a strange year it has been! Light winter rains, hardly enough to grow a bulky crop of oats, were followed by a very wet Spring, with the soil fully recharged and house tanks filled by the end of November. We had no frost this year, but hail caused considerable damage in the region. Rosnay was fortunate to just miss the trail of destruction that included stones the size of tennis balls stripping gum trees and settling 30cm deep in some places.It didn’t take long for the November moisture to dry up though, with a couple of heatwaves in late November and climaxing with over 50 degrees recorded at ground level on New Years Day. Strangely enough, this was the day when the Belubula River began to flow again after being dry all spring – as the November rains must have replenished the aquifers and creeks. For the next 10 weeks we were able to pump from the River, but it is now dry again. After the new year, the extreme heat conditions began to ease, leading to some ideal cool night harvest conditions for the Semillon (12 February @ 11.1 beaume), Chardonnay (1 March @ 13.2 beaume), Shiraz (6 March @ 14 beaume), and Merlot (21 March @ 13 beaume). At the time of writing, the Cabernet is still only 12.2 beaume and not tasting ripe yet. Yield has been good, except the Semillon which was only 40% of the 2005 harvest, and is proving difficult. Rosnay Continues to Grow its Wine ProductionFor the first time in 2006 almost all of the Rosnay fruit is being made into wine under the Rosnay label. Though yield was down slightly on 2005, this makes 2006 the biggest Rosnay wine vintage to date, with over 7,500 cases estimated. Of course, Rosnay is still a tiny player in the overall wine industry.The Rosnay wines are all being made by Windowrie Wines, who have provided an excellent service since making the first Rosnay Chardonnay Semillon in 2002, and are located just 5km by tractor from the Rosnay. After less than 6 months on the job, the new winemaker, Folkert Jensen, is producing wines with classic fruit character, few additives (eg animal products), and low sulfur. This growth in production has been fueled by the support of the independent liquor trade, enthusiastic cellar door customers, and export. It is encouraged by continued good feedback on the wines, with the wines improving considerably over recent years, according to our most objective critics. And it proves what we may have doubted in the early days – that it is possible to produce good quality and value for money wines, without toxic pesticides, fungicides, herbicides and synthetic fertilisers. Now, through expanded production, increased economies of scale and the pursuit of export markets, Rosnay wines are among the best priced in the organic category. Rosnay wines are amongst the lower priced wines, but in the best restaurants in Sydney (Café Sydney and Quay Restaurant, Sydney). Ongoing Development of Organic Farming MethodsSince starting in 1997, the organic methods used at Rosnay have changed, with the 2005-2006 season seeing considerably reduced off-farm inputs, with no reduction in quality or yield, except in the Semillon yield.Using less foliar fertilisers, but still using Sulfur: To see if the use of foliar fertilisers may be linked with fungal disease, we didn’t use any this year, moving to a very simple program of spraying sulfur only at 2kg per hectare on the fresh spring shoots (October-November) to prevent Powdery Mildew. It worked – we found almost no Powdery Mildew this season. We didn’t spray copper though, and for the first time in 5 years we suffered from Downy Mildew due to the wet November. As soon as the first infection was noted, we did then apply copper as well as sulfur, and soon enough the heat of December and January fried the disease away. However, the lack of infection by Powdery Mildew was a great step forward, and showed that it is not necessary, and perhaps beneficial, not to apply foliar nutrients (eg fish fertiliser) to soft growing shoots. We believe sulfur should remain a restricted organic input, mainly because there is no biological alternative. The rates at which we apply this naturally occurring element to the vines is only a few percent of the amount of sulfur applied when spreading gypsum (calcium sulfate) at moderate rates of 1000kg/ha, or the amount of sulfur needed as plant nutrients. Compared with systemic fungicides, sulfur poses little risk to humans and the environment, though predatory mites do not appreciate it. Similarly in winemaking, we still use sulfur, as little as possible, with this years wines looking like the lowest in sulfur ever. However, we continue to reseach the problem of human sulfur intolerance, and try to help our customers who have this problem. Most recently, we have discovered that sulfur intolerance could be linked with a deficiency in Molydenum! (see inset story). Rosnay Organic Grazing and Compost: For the second season, Wooly and Margie ran their controlled grazing system through the vineyards, with some good effect. We encouraged the growth of the grasses by spreading compost later in the spring, when there was plenty of grass to utilise it. This, at one tonne per acre, seems like almost nothing, but it seems to work. The grass greens up, especially where there are “dollops” of compost. Because the compost is made properly, with straw added, turning and biodynamic preparations, it also acts as a soil inoculant. The only other forms of fertiliser are fish emulsion applied through the irrigation system on poorer blocks, and the trace element boron applied in small doses during the season, since it is low in the soil and tissue tests. Meanwhile, Darren Fahey and Yin Chen from NSW Department of Primary Industries have been conducting a trial of the use of NASAA certified composted urban waste mulch under the merlot vines, in order to see if there is a benefit in water use, yield and/or quality. We cant say much at this stage, but look forward to seeing their results. Whilst grazing and mulching are certainly the best ways to manage groundcover, in Spring after budburst there is no alternative but to mow. This year we finally made the decision to buy a tool for the job – a zero turn diesel powered mower, which does each row of vines in two passes, leaving only a very narrow strip of grass directly under the vines. It also deposits the clippings under the vines. This investment should pay off in reduction of frost damage and improved vine health. Biodynamics: New Blood: In the last 12 months Margie Crowther has studed the latest in Biodynamics and applied the preparations to most of Rivers Road Organic Farms, using the Stathams equipment. Getting up at 3am to spray “501”, the silica preparation, takes some dedication, but Margie has plenty of that! For her, the main motivation to balance the soil is to improve the feed and health of her sheep. New Vintage ReleasesChard-Sem: The last pallet of the 2003 Chardonnay-Semillon was sold to Oxfam Wine Club, and we are glad its going to help the less fortunate through Oxfam’s work. The new 2004 Chardonnay Semillon, previously released under the “Great White” label for the Nature Conservation Council of NSW (NCC), is now released under the Rosnay label. Unlike the 2003 “unwooded” Chardonnay Semillon, about one third of this wine was fermented in old oak barrels which, whilst not adding strong oak flavours, resulted in a wine with more creaminess and complexity than its clean and fruity predecessor.Semillon: The 2004 Semillon, a classic lightweight and crisp style, is selling remarkably well considering Semillon is a small sector of the market. Soon we move into the 2005 Semillon, which is a slightly more full bodied and smoother style. Both are ideal with fresh seafood, with subtle grassy flavour and citricity. Triple Blend: Our most popular red, the 2003 Triple Blend, is now also almost gone, to be followed by the 2004 Triple Blend. Also formerly labelled as the “Western Red” for the NCC wine club, it is a wine with a good Cabernet backbone and plenty of fruit richness – perfect with heavy duty beef or game dishes, barbeques or venison. Shiraz: With the new relase 2005 Shiraz, we have taken a new approach. Whilst the harsh tannins and flavours of young shiraz may be palatable, this wine is softened and textured through extended maturation of gross lees (the “sediment” in the tank or barrel). This method created a wine which is rounder in style, and slightly rustic and earthy - ideal for pasta or lighter meat dishes such as lamb. Rose: The new 2005 Rose is a non-varietal and experimental wine, which has been very popular in tastings. It is not at all easy to produce a good rose, so we only produced 100 cases, and plan to produce 200 cases in 2006. It’s a dry style, with soft Cabernet tannins, and easy drinking for picnic or alfresco occasions. It features “The Newcomer”, Florence Statham’s latest exploration of the landforms and wildlife of Canowindra. Olives: The 2005 olives are being bottled on demand, with the 300ml, 500ml and 2 litre jars all proving popular. 10-litre buckets are also being shipped to restaurants and co-ops in Sydney and ACT. The olive shed has been upgraded to cope with the increased volume, as the 2005 harvest totaled 4 tonnes of Kalamata olives. This has involved finding and modifying a small conveyor inspection table, a secondary fruit washer, a rotary jar table and heated brine tank. Heated brine (or “hot fill”) has been adopted in order to ensure that no jars undergo secondary fermentation, as happened twice in the last year. By filling with brine at 90-95 degrees C the jar and fruit are pasteurised, and the cooling liquid improves the seal of the lid through suction. Leaky jars should not be a problem from now on. In order to ensure that Rosnay kalamata olives really are the best on the market, up to 20% of 2nd grade fruit is seperated by hand before bottling. It is then depitted and made into a delicious olive paste (tapenade without anchovies), with thyme and chilli. The green olives are also sorted from the traditionally black kalamatas, and are now available for those who prefer their nuttier texture, and equally delicious taste. The olives are now labelled with our new label printer which prints high quality colour onto synthetic (oil proof) labels, so that the “oily label” will also be a thing of the past. Whilst our olives have received great acclaim, we would appreciate feedback on any other defects you may have observed in them or their packaging. Olive Oil: The 2005 Olive Oil totalled about 1000 litres, and was picked on time and pressed immediately at Billimari Olive Processors. This bronze medal-winning oil (Cowra Show 2005) has sold out, but we look forward to the next harvest. Other boutique products: Florence Statham has been expanding her creative passion into the preserving of the small production of figs and other fruits at Rosnay. She has also made merlot and shiraz jelly which is delicious with cheese. These delicious preserves and jams are available only through the cellar door and mail order. Our french cousin Tiffanie Leclerc also uses the peach and plum jams on her crepes, which she sells every Saturday morning at Orange Grove Market in Sydney. Growing Distribution and Export of Rosnay WinesIn late 2006 Rosnay joined the portfolio of Nectar Organics, a new organic-only wine distribution business set up by Kris Miles in Brisbane. Though the Queensland wine trade is increasingly duopolised by the two supermarket chains, it is hoped that this will make Rosnay more accessible to independent trade, restaurants, and hence consumers.In Sydney Rosnay is now distributed by The Returnable Wine Bottle Co., whose core business is the environmentally friendly reuse of 1-litre wine bottles with classic varietal sytles from across SE Australia. In five years Anthony Young has grown this business from nothing to an 80,000 litre per year turnover, and is looking for trade outlets outside his core areas of Sydney and Canberra. Anthony now also distributes Rosnay as the only labelled wine, since organic wine is also an environmentally friendly product. Though margins are very tight, it is hoped that we will also supply or source organic wine for refillables. In Melbourne Michael Gow of Raw Wine and Beer continues to supply Rosnay exclusively, mainly to the organic grocery trade, who are allowed to sell organic wine under Victorian laws. However, it is hoped that this can be exapnded into the mainstream wine trade as in NSW and Queensland. Late 2005 saw the first export shipment of Rosnay wines and olives, which departed just after Christmas by sea to Singapore. The direct importers, REV Distribution Network, are enthusiastic and experienced “brand builders”, who in three months made three shipments totalling five pallets, and listed the wines in clubs, restaurants and selected supermarket stores. They see Rosnay as the first “good” organic wines to hit the Singapore market in over five years, and have had great response to their introduction. Richard and Sam Statham are looking forward to attending wine dinners from the 19th to 21st of April in Singapore, and meeting trade and consumers with an interest in organic wine. Then in March 2006, 13 pallets of Rosnay wine were exported to China through Ocean Star Trading, a Sydney based export company. With Sam and Simone Statham having experienced China first hand, it is clear that working closely with an Australian based exporter is the best way to deal with this huge but poorly understood market. It was unfortunate that China only recently introduced tight new laws which prohibit the sale of imported products labelled “organic”in China unless certified by a Chinese certification company, which meant relabelling all 820 cases that were ordered. However, it is hoped that Australia and China can build mutual recognition so that the trade of organic products can grow. Rivers Road Organic FarmsWe would like to point out that the organic farming development formerly known as “Rosnay Organic Farms”, is now renamed “Rivers Road Organic Farms”, of which the Statham family and “Rosnay” are minority members. It is a great pleasure to be a part of the Rivers Road Organic Farms community, whose 6 family membership share the common goal of becoming successful intensive organic farmers. From organic vegetables, to wines, olives and lamb, the produce of RROF is all certified organic and produced with great care. Each year the members are concurrently certified by Australian Certified Organic, and cooperation occurs between members through informal partnerships, sharefarming and contracting. The members association is professionally managed by Sue Dowling of Orange, who is a specialist in Community and Strata Title management.The structure and management of RROF is of interest to planners in areas of high rural development pressure, such as the South Coast, as it combines community, sustainability and productivity, whilst insulating Council from legal action over chemical use, due to the organic covenant. The management of common land is through a system of “Block One Neighbourhood Credits” (BONCs), or pledged annual work hours by each member for the maintenance of the commonly owned “Block One”, comprising 20 hectares of native tree habitat and laneways. This allows all members to be actively involved through “BONCing” around the farm. Coming up soon is the planting of 1000 kalamata olive trees by Sue and Steve Brown, the building of a shed by Rob and Marjorie Lamrock, and the lodging of a building application for a strawbale house by Margie Crowther and Andrew Wooldridge. Wolly and Margie have also launched their “Chop Club” which we highly recommend, and you can join and receive their delicious organic lamb. Note to potential growers: Block 12 is still for sale – always a slow process thanks to the organic covenant which does not suit everyone – unfortunately! Local and National Events Canowindra, as part of the Cowra Wine Region, is set for a boost with the agreement of local vignerons to support the building of “Taste Canowindra”, a local art and wine display and tasting centre, next to the Trading Post in Canowindra. The owners of the business are Bob and Marg Craven, and we look forward to having our wines on taste there 7 days a week, from September this year. 2005 was also a big year for the publicity of organic wine and farming generally, kicking off with the inaugural Organic Expo in Darling Harbour. Sam Statham helped initiate the Australia-New Zealand Organic Wine Show, as part of the Organic Expo, and sponsored by Ultimo Wine Centre and Palm Beach Wine Company. It received almost 100 entries, and was a great showcase of the diversity of the styles of organic wine we produce in ANZ. Pioneer organic vigneron Gil Wahlquist (founder of Botobolar) made a side splitting speech whilst announcing the trophy winning wine, the Hochkirch 2003 Reisling. This year’s expo is 22-23 July, at Darling Harbour. Rosnay has sponsored some great organisations in the arts, music and environment, including radio 2MBS, Sydneys community music station, and MLC Gallery, an art gallery in Harris St Ultimo run by the creative Cabello family. Rosnay also supports the Nature Conservation Council through its Organic Wine Club (which receives generous donations), and the Eco Living Centre of UNSW (who invited Rosnay to take part in Peats Ridge Festival in November 2005). These partnerships allow Rosnay to be known to a broader audience, and they are all great people we enjoy working with on common causes. Next on the agenda is the “Con Artists at All Saints”, the 5th annual concert of the student ensemble of the Sydney Conservatorium, directed by David Miller AM, and organised by Richard Statham. It is to be held on Saturday 13th of May at 2pm at All Saints Church, Canowindra. Cheers! From the whole family at Rosnay |