Patrice Newell

In 1987, Newell left the glitzy world of television journalism for a life up to her armpits in rich biodynamic soil, farming olives and beef on Elmswood, a property owned by her and her partner, the broadcaster Phillip Adams, in the Upper Hunter. "In the early '80s, I researched a doco for Kerry O'Brien on chemical agriculture," Newell says. "When I bought our farm, I was determined I wouldn't give one cent to those people. I knew too many horrific stories about the chemical industry."

Organic produce can look less glossy and plumped-up than normal produce, but Newell says: "I'm suspicious of a perfect-looking peach. I always like a few bruises and a few bug marks, because then I know it hasn't been sprayed to death."

She denies organic produce costs too much.

"It doesn't. Other food is too cheap. Maintaining farmland costs a lot of money, and farmers need to allocate time and funds every year to do it. But how many farmers can meet their obligations when they're being screwed on price?

"If Australians truly value good food, a healthy environment and the survival of a decent standard of living, they have to learn to pay a decent price - a higher price - for food products.

"If you buy food on the cheap, you're selling out Australia. Organic and biodynamic food is probably the right price. And if you're buying organic, you're buying healthier food - especially for your children. You want maximum nutrition for them and, clearly, a lot of conventional produce isn't providing it."

Does it taste better? "Taste is subjective. But from what I've tasted - most of which is biodynamic - I'd say yes."

Is it better for you? "Food growing in a soil that's high in minerals is better for you. American nutritionists argue that the reason they add vitamins to food is because [conventionally grown] plants don't provide them any more."

Why should I go organic? "When you buy certified biodynamic or organic produce, you know the grower has been using maximum natural processes."

Is it a passing fad? "There have been organic farmers since artificial fertilisers were introduced 120 years ago."

Sam Statham

Rosnay is part of a 140-hectare community-title farm on the banks of the Belubula River near Canowindra, run by the Statham family and five owner-growers. Richard and Florence Statham and their son Sam grow wine grapes, olives and vegetables.

Rosnay, like Elmswood, is a biodynamic farm. Conventional farmers do it tough in Australia, so why did the Stathams make it harder on themselves by choosing to go biodynamic?

"Before Rosnay we had a sheep farm in northern NSW, where we didn't use many chemicals at all," Sam says. "So learning to go organic wasn't such a big shift, because we were halfway there already."

But, he says, it's no bed of roses. "You've got higher management costs in an organic system and higher input costs. We have to make our own compost and that takes time and effort. In the long term, the idea is that the soil will pay you back. We're probably making less money than conventional farmers at the moment - but it's a matter of working smarter and waiting."

Does it taste better? "The intensity of favour is definitely different. You can taste the difference when you grow your own food."

Is it better for you? "You can say with a degree of confidence, backed up by research, that you get higher levels of anti-oxidants in organic produce - mainly because plants will develop compounds for self-defence against pests and disease. Researchers in the UK comparing organic and non-organic red wines found higher levels of resveratrol [an anti-oxidant] in the organic product."

Why should I go organic? "Taste, health and the environment."

Is it a passing fad? "Organic farming is now part of public policy in many countries, especially in Europe and developing nations."